Hey everyone!
Sorry for not posting last weekend. My husband and I just returned from a weeklong trip to Newport Rhode Island and Mohegan Sun in Connecticut. It was a much needed break from the doldrums of the daily, and after five days away I am feeling refreshed and…ready for my next vacation. lol
Just kidding. Sort of.
For those of you that have been here before, you may already know about my love for Newport. I’m perhaps unhealthily obsessed. But I am lucky enough that:
- Newport is three hours driving distance away from where I live.
- I have a wonderful partner who indulges my obsession. (We literally do the same trip every year the last week of August. Newport. Mohegan Sun. It’s heaven. Shout out to Mark for being on board.)
And because I love Newport so much, I wanted to share it with all of you. So, whether you’re planning a trip to the Northeast this Fall and have Newport on your itinerary or are wondering what is so great about Newport…I have some recommendations to help you plan a fabulous stay and enjoy this little Northeast gem.
Preparing for Your Trip
For those of you who like to do a little reading, I have some great non-fiction (and fiction) reads about Newport that are totally worth picking up either before or after your trip. And if you aren’t traveling to Newport, these books will definitely make you want to.
Gilded: How Newport Became America’s Richest Resort by Deborah Davis
Gilded is a non-fiction work about the history of Newport Rhode Island spanning back to its inception in the 1600s (and prior) until recent years. The book reads like a novel and is packed with information and photos about the different families who inhabited the island over the centuries and their impact on Newport. There is also an extensive bibliography to peruse for further reading.
Vanderbilt: The Rise and Fall of an American Dynasty by Anderson Cooper and Katherine Howe
If you go to Newport, then you’re going to be hearing A LOT about the Vanderbilt’s, especially if you visit Marble House and The Breakers (more on that later). Vanderbilt is a fascinating look into the world of the Vanderbilt dynasty, from the first Vanderbilt to touch American soil in the 1600s to their Gilded Age excess and subsequent downfall. Each chapter is a different vignette focusing on a specific family member and paints a vivid picture of the times during which they lived. I would suggest listening to the audiobook, if possible, as it is read by Cooper, whose narration brings the text to life. And fun fact for those who don’t know, Anderson Cooper’s mother is Gloria Vanderbilt, a direct descendent of Cornelius Vanderbilt the first and daughter of Reginald Vanderbilt, whose family owned The Breakers.
The Gilded Newport Mystery Series by Alyssa Maxwell
For those more interested in fiction, look no further than Alyssa Maxwell’s Gilded Newport Mystery Series. She just recently published her 11th book in the series, Murder at the Elms. The books take place at the turn of the 20th century and follow journalist, Emma Cross, as she helps solve murders among the four hundred during the summer seasons. Maxwell does an amazing job of making Newport come to life as though it is a character in her book along with using detailed descriptions of the “summer cottages” as a focal point. Plus, the cozy vibes of these books will definitely get you in the mood for a good tour of Bellevue Avenue.
Where to Stay
Newport Harbor Hotel and Marina
Every year, for the last five years, my husband and I have stayed at the Newport Harbor Hotel and Marina.
The hotel is located in the center of the shopping district right next to Bowen’s Wharf and across from Thames Street. So, you’re in walking distance of all the shops and restaurants.
We spring for the harbor view with a balcony, which is so worth it.
The rooms are on the smaller side, but they are comfortable and come with a small keurig machine and a mini fridge. Plus, the hotel restaurant, Salt Water, serves breakfast every morning from 7 AM to 11 AM, where you get buy one, get one free meals for those staying at the hotel. I love to eat outside on the dock when the weather is nice to start the day.
You are also given drink tickets upon check in to use at breakfast or at the Salt Water bar. And parking is validated for hotel guests, which is super convenient considering that parking on Thames Street or for the wharves can be a bit of a challenge.
Where to Eat
22 Bowen’s Wine Bar and Grille
22 Bowen’s is a two minute walk from the Harbor Hotel and Marina. (Ok, maybe it’s five minutes but still.) They have great drinks and delicious seafood, but where Bowen’s really shines is its buttery, melt in your mouth steak. We pretty much spent the whole meal talking about how good the food was. The shrimp was firm and crisp. The sides (we got the trio of carrots, mushrooms, and mashed potatoes along with the macaroni and cheese) were so flavorful that even my husband who hates mashed potatoes couldn’t get over how good they were. Finished it off with a slice of tart key lime pie, and I was ready for bed. lol
Every year my husband and I are on the hunt for a restaurant with great food and an even better view, and this is the year we finally found it.
The Cafe is the “less expensive” answer to the Chanler Hotel’s super fancy restaurant, The Cara, where you can have a five-course, blind tasting menu. That is not our jam. Located at the very beginning of The Cliff Walk (more about that later), The Cafe boasts incredible views of the Atlantic. For dinner, we each had the Wagyu flank steak, which was incredible and the appetizer salad, which I ate all of. And for dessert, we shared the upscale ice cream sandwich. Between the food and the ambience, I could not recommend The Cafe enough, especially if you are looking for a romantic evening. It has everything you could want in a Newport dining experience.
This little gem of a restaurant is not on the water but is such a delight!
Located at the corner of Marlborough Street and Farewell Avenue sits The White Horse Tavern, which boasts to be the oldest restaurant in America. (I feel like other restaurants have made this claim, but either way, I am charmed by this particular place.) The house dates back to the 1600s and is two stories of rooms, including a full bar and dining areas for dinner. If you are a fan of historical places, then you need to come to The White Horse Tavern. We got the lump crab cocktail, the Beef Wellington (which is a house specialty), and the adult root beer float, and when I tell you (just like at Bowen’s) we spent the whole meal talking about how good the food was, I mean it. In fact, the food is so good that we talk about how excited we are to get back to it for the year leading up to the trip. Worth a visit for fans of great food, tasty cocktails, and The American Revolution.
What to Do
Take a jaunt along The Cliff Walk
The Cliff Walk is a magnificent 3-mile stretch of pathway that hugs the backs of the gilded age summer cottages and the Atlantic Ocean. There are various points of entry to the Cliff Walk, including the street alongside The Breakers as well as benches where you can sit and enjoy the panoramic views of the ocean.
Visit the Mansions
If you come to Newport, you have to visit at least one mansion. The Preservation Society of Newport County maintains several mansions on or close to Bellevue Avenue, most of which are open to visitors. If you want to see spectacular works of art, you’ll want to check out The Elms, Marble House, or The Breakers. And for fans of The Great Gatsby, check out Rosecliff (where the 1970s version of the movie was filmed). Along with the price of your ticket, you get access to the grounds and gardens, which you won’t want to miss at The Elms especially. Download the Newport Mansions app on your phone and bring a set of headphones to enjoy guided tours of each of the mansions.
Spend a Morning at Rough Point
I included touring Rough Point as its own separate entity because when we went we felt like it was. Rough Point was originally built by Fredrick Vanderbilt and his wife, Louise, and ultimately bought by the Duke family. It’s run by the Newport Restoration Foundation, which is a historical society independent from the other mansions. You can download the NRF app to your phone and take a guided tour to learn more about the house. But when you are done, you are going to want to spend some time on the grounds.
Aside from what are quite possibly the best views of the Atlantic from any of the summer cottages, The Breakers included, Rough Point has a charming garden where you can sit and enjoy the lush greenery of the estate. You’ll want to spend time walking around the grounds and enjoying the natural beauty of this incredible place.
Take a Ride Down Ocean Drive
Follow the signs from America’s Cup Avenue all the way to Ocean Drive where you’ll see pristine views of the Atlantic. Park your car (or bike) and take a seat at one of the benches at Brenton State Park, where you can enjoy an afternoon watching the waves crash against the rocks, look for the perfect shell, or just say hello to the seagulls.
Need a refreshment?
Enjoy an afternoon cocktail in one of the plentiful adirondack chairs overlooking the water at The Lawn at the Castle Hill Inn at the beginning or end of your Ocean Drive journey (depending on which direction you’re going.) If you decide to stop, just beware of the bees. They also like an afternoon beverage.
Visit the Topiary Gardens in Portsmouth
Take a 10 minute drive over to nearby Portsmouth to tour the Green Animals Topiary Gardens and house. This is another property run by the Preservation Society of Newport County. It’s a huge green space with tons of gardens, flowers, and topiaries that’s great for an afternoon picnic. You can also take a guided tour of the estate and check out the little gift shop.
Set Sail with a Boat Tour
Newport is a port city with a rich naval history, so it would be a tragedy if you didn’t spend at least a little time on the water. Not saying that you need to stretch your merchant muscles or defend the port from enemies. However, there are some great cruises that take you around the harbor for site seeing tours that you can grab tickets for on Bowen’s Wharf, including guided tours and sunset sails.
Final Thoughts
Of course, this is just a very small overview of what Newport has to offer. It truly is a magical place with tons of history and heart.
Been to Newport before?
Share your recommendations for places to stay, see, and eat in the comments!
And if you’re currently planning your Newport trip, I want to hear all about it!
Until next time, friends. Wishing you a week of indulging your current obsessions.
Robyn Neilsen 